On the left bank of the River Vltava, about a kilometre away from Prague
Castle, is an area called Smichov. It used to be a grimy, rather sordid
neighbourhood, home to smoke-belching factories, the Staropramen brewery
and the city's seediest bars. Smichov has never had much to recommend it
(or at least not in my opinion), except for one, rather curious landmark.
Just as the tram pulls out from the Andel station, you pass a grey,
functionalist-looking building, its doors padlocked shut. At first it
looks wholly unremarkable, a storeroom or an electricity